A Look Inside Copenhagen’s Autonomous Neighborhood Christiania
Within Denmark’s capital Copenhagen exists another world called Christiania. It’s a small area within the city that proclaimed its independence from the state in 1971, and an intriguing place to visit and experience. There are some ground rules and many questions that come up while walking around Christiania, and some residents will even warn you to avoid the place as I was right outside this Danish bakery. Despite its rough look around the edges, Christiania is one place you should visit if you’re ever in Copenhagen to catch a community making a rapid and often difficult transition.
What Is Christiania?
Christiania is a neighborhood within Copenhagen that is on the site of an old military base that was taken over by squatters in 1971. The residents then declared it a self-governing entity which has since existed in a tense relationship with the Danish government. Technically, Christiania is regarded more of as a commune that is under a set of special limited laws. Many visitors assume Christiania is a society that was founded by hippies, although its more complicated than that. It’s ideals are a culmination of leftist and anarchist principles (but that’s something of an oversimplification).
Some Ground Rules
When you first enter Christiania, you’ll notice colorful graffiti everywhere; painting the image of love, openness, and harmony. It’s important to note that taking pictures is forbidden in parts of Christiania but out here near the children’s park it’s OK (just ask people before you take pictures of them). There are a few other simple ground rules that are at the heart of Christiania:
- No guns.
- No violence.
- No stealing.
- No hard drugs.
There is also the informal rule of no running throughout Christiania – the act is associated with drugs raids which have become more frequent in Christiania during the past few years. Otherwise, you’re free to walk around the entrance area, around the homes, and enter some of the buildings. There is a museum here, although when I tried to visit, it was closed with only the lingering smell of marijuana in the hallway.
Beyond The No-Photo Zone
There is a stark contrast between the lighthearted design of the entrance and the dark colors beyond the no-photo (or pusher) zone. You’ll see signs everywhere warning you not to take pictures as drugs are being sold and smoked freely, although it is illegal in Denmark. This part of Christiania looks a bit more rundown and you’ll most certainly be greeted by suspicious eyes everywhere, the drug raids have taught the residents to be weary of new faces.
In contrast to the people huddled around fires burning in barrels, there are the occasional modern cafes like Cafe Nemoland next to lively bars. The normalcy in a place that doesn’t look or feel quite normal is fascinating to experience and witness, particularly as Danes from the outside walk to work or back home through the drug dealers in the neighborhood.
A World Of Contrasts and Clash
When talking to the residents of Christiania who’ve lived in the neighborhood for more than 15 years, you get a sense that some of the original ideals are being lost with a new generation more interested in drugs than community. Much of the dealing has been taken over by organized crime and subsequently the Danish government has taken notice. Drug raids are common and many government officials of late have based part of their campaigns on promises of ending Christiania’s loosely defined status.
Some of the old ideas and practices still keep the spirit alive; all decisions within the community must be decided by unanimous vote and all living spaces cost an equal amount regardless of size, but it’s hard to tell how long any of it will last. Provided you follow the rules and keep your camera away you can experience Christiania safely and decide for yourself.
[photos note: The top picture is of the entrance of Christiania, other others I took from around Copenhagen. I didn't take and decided not to post any other pictures of Christiania which you can easily find online.]
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My name is Anil, a traveler and travel enthusiast. I created foXnoMad to connect with other travelers, discover their world, and share what I’ve learned about mine.
I’m always on the lookout for new venues in Copenhagen. Next time I’m there, I’ll be sure to stop by the on that very same location.
Have you been before to the city?
I did wander through Christiania the first time I went to Copenhagen some years back and was seriously disappointed and alarmed by the lack of character. I had read and hoped for a place where people lived by solid but different principles based around freedom. Soft drugs were permitted and life was meant to be relaxing. As you suggest, maybe its original ideals have been lost over time but to me it felt seedy, rundown, dingy (outside of the few external colourful buildings) and drug-ridden and certainly not a celebration of anything worth celebrating. Very disappointing to me.
You know Mark, I came away with one feeling too – disappointment. I hate to say that but I had a completely different idea of what Christiania was before I visited. It’s nothing like I was expecting and the erosion of what (I believe) was another vision is a bit sad as well.
How utterly fascinating. I know I’m going to do more research on Christiania- to discover the original ideals and how the Government allowed this region to become autonomous
It’s a gray area for sure between the government and Christiania, but surprising they even let it happen. I can’t imagine too many other places in the world it could happen. Perhaps it was a matter of timing and the political climate at the time. I’m sure the research will be very interesting!
So interesting. Put me in mind of those sci fi movies about future worlds after the nuclear holocaust. I’m pretty gutsy, but don’t know if I’d have the courage to walk around this neighborhood – at least not alone, nor with my camera hanging around my neck, like it usually is.
haha, it does kind of look like that, right out of a movie in parts. I don’t think you would be let in with a camera around your neck, I was warned strongly against it and my friend with an SLR was told that’s a big no-no. It’s associated with journalism and could put you in danger. Otherwise, it looked rough during the day but within all of that some parts were extraordinarily normal. Must be a different world at night.
We haven’t been there despite the fact that we’ve been to Copenhagen and that Sweden and Denmark is so close. Didn’t feel the urge to go there even though it has sounded a bit cool earlier
. I think it’s like you said: it has changed – and probably not for the better. We’ll see what happens.
It’s certainly interesting to see at least once. Hard to believe it’s right in a Western European capital.
Oh man, you have really piqued my interest. Denmark is incredibly high up on my list of places to visit, and Christiana sounds like a place you have to visit before you really understand it!
It’s a city that I enjoy every time I end up there and Christiania is just so different from the other parts of the Copenhagen. I’m sure you’d enjoy wandering around there, it’s fascinating.
When I saw the first picture before reading the article I immediately thought of Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Christina sounds really interesting. It would be really hard to be somewhere that fascinating and not be able to take photos! Is it safe for females to walk around alone?
The artwork and graffiti around is really incredible. Some gifted artists out there who’ve decorated the place. I really wanted to take pictures, it was very tempting!
During the day it seemed very safe. The entrance area and around the bars during the day were pretty open but some of the side streets around the ‘pusher zone’ weren’t inviting at all. Maybe during the day but I’d think not at night.
Awesome post Anil — extremely interesting! I had no idea a place like this would exist in such a major city!
Thanks Jason – I tried to do some digging and find other examples of similar situations around the world but haven’t come up with anything close. Once you see the pusher street it’s hard to believe you’re in one of the richest countries in the world.
Yeah. I’m kinda curious why they allow this place to exist if they know some of their laws are being broken inside…
From what I understand there is a growing movement within Denmark to shut it down, especially now that organized crime seems to have it’s hand firmly implanted. I think though that the government is worried about the backlash and as far as the police are concerned, maybe it’s not so bad – at least you know where most of the drugs are? Easier to police and track down the big suppliers perhaps.
i’ve read about Christania before and became very interested to see it. thanks for sharing anil
You’re welcome flip. Hopefully you can make it there one day
It sounds a little scary but then when you go into some of these edgier neighbourhoods, it can be more interesting and I do like the murals & street art that you often find in this kind of environment, although perhaps not here if you can’t easily take photos
I’ve seen some of the photos online that have been taken in the no-picture zone and they all seem to be at hip angle. It would be pretty difficult to sneak a picture otherwise…it’s too bad since there’s a lot of good art beyond that point too.
Cool article on Christiania!
Thanks Sonya!
Hey Anil,
Christiania looks to be an intersting place to have an aimless wonder around. Sounds like 15 years ago it could have been a better place but is now becoming a little less friendly. When I visit Copenhagen, will be sure to visit! Great article!
Hi Mark,
It’s fascinating walking around there, really is like a different planet but you’re right, some of those side streets were definitely not inviting.
I guess I was also a little disappointed after visiting Christiania. I had nice coffee break in the cafe to warm up on a cold, rainy, December day and then I walked around to see a bunch of people standing around fires smoking hash. Those who weren’t smoking hash were preparing and selling the hash. I think the community has lost a lot of its original ideals.
Good post. Thanks, Anil. Will be interesting to see what the Danish Gov’t does with Christiania, if anything, in the future.
The bonfires is something that sticks out in my memory vividly when I think of Christiania. Totally the opposite I’d suspect of what the people imagined the place would become.
“I was warned strongly against it and my friend with an SLR was told that’s a big no-no. It’s associated with journalism and could put you in danger.”
What kind of danger could you be in if there is no violence allowed? Do the Christianians favor the rule of no photos enough to break the rule of no violence?
I really don’t understand why anyone would be very afraid to go here, I’ve been in much more terrible places than alleys where you can buy pot – places that sure as hell didn’t have a rule against violence – and even then didn’t feel toooo threatened.
I’m not sure, I wasn’t able to test the limits of the rules since I didn’t try, although I wondered the same. The side streets of Christiania definitely don’t look inviting, I’m not sure if they are dangerous or not though, I didn’t experience or see anything actually happen.